| This is a ver. 2b-1 SIMM. It is known to work with ALL 97 3.6L and 5.2L, 5.9L. and up. This SIMM should have a life of well over 200,000 running hours. The PCB is dunked in epoxy paint to seal it and the box is potted. It should be fairly water proof. It is not vibration sensitive or susceptible. |
| It is recommended you read the entire installation and wiring section completely, and understand it before attempting an installation. Failure to connect the SIMM properly will render it useless. Test the wiring to insure you connect properly PRIOR to making the connections. |
| Mount this guy screws DOWN in the top edge of the frame rail near the post cat O2 sensor connector in one of the many convenient holes provided, with a tie wrap. |
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| This SIMM will work with all 97+ Dakota 3.6, 5.2, 5.9 engines [when I say Dakota, I also mean Dakota/Durango]. |
| Dakotas [and the 97+ full size trucks too] have a fluted type O2 sensor in post cat positions : |
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| This sensor has 4 wires, typically a black and gray, and 2 white ones. The wiring for a 99 Dakota is described below, BUT with a DVM you can figure out any 4 wire sensor of this type : [MOPAR is using this sensor in a lot of places] |
| If you do NOT have the fluted type sensor, you must use a REV-D O2 SIMM, the rev 2b-1 will NOT work with the titanium type sensors... |
| Locate the post cat O2 sensor, and the connector … The connector has 4 pins, and they are numbered on the outside, use a light and magnifying glass. You should find the following : [wiring for a Dakota, Durango similar] |
| O2 Sensor side | SIMM |
| 1 | White | Heater + | White | 12vdc engine running |
| 2 | White | Heater Gnd | White | chassis ground |
| 3 | Gray | O2 Ground | Gray | O2 PCM ground |
| 4 | Black | O2 Signal | Black | High Imp PCM |
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| Truck side |
| | 3.9/5.2 | 5.9 R/T |
| 1 | DG/PK | DG/PK |
| 2 | BK | BK |
| 3 | BK/LB | BK/LB |
| 4 | OR/BK | TN/WT |
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| To install the SIMM, disconnect the post cat O2 sensor and cut the pigtail in half. Then connect the SIMM wires as shown above using either solder joints or a gas tight solder-less type [crimp] connector now supplied. If solder connection, use heat shrink and heat enough to make a water tight seal. This is the recommended method. You can also solder the O2 sensor back if desired, just remember to mark both ends of the white wires so you know which is which. They DO use high temp wire in the O2 sensor pigtail, so get it hot enough to get a good solder joint! |
| Version 2B includes 4 water resistant crimp style connectors. Crimp with a pair of pliers. The phone company uses tons of these. These will be an acceptable alternative to soldered connections. These will be installed the same as the soldered connection described above. |
Crimp Connector Installation NOTES:
- Observe the flat side of the connector. It has a line running across the middle. You must insert the wires so that the end of the wire goes completely across to connector, and the wire can be observed on both sides of the line.
- Due to insulation thickness the wires may be slightly difficult to insert, but they will go. If you have one that is difficult try the other hole.
- If you absolutely can not get the wire in the connector strip off 1/8th inch OR LESS of insulation and re-insert. The insulation MUST be visible inside the round area with the line across it or you won’t get a seal, and the wire must go to the opposite end.
- Crimp with a pair of standard pliers. It does not require excessive force to crimp these, and use of great force will damage the splice. Crimp only until the raised side of the connector is flush with the edges.
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| Wiring NOTE: The connection of the SIMM wires is critical. Verify your connection points PRIOR to making the connections. The Rev-2b1 SIMM has the wires color coded to match most standard O2 sensors. If your O2 sensor doesn’t have the standard white,gray,black then use the chart above to insure you connect it properly. |
| While the 97 and 98 won’t generally show a MIL light if you disconnect the post cat O2 sensor, they seem to exhibit the same erratic idle behavior. This is particularly noticeable with a stick. It may just decide to idle at 1200 - 1500 rpm at random times. It’s quiet annoying, especially when sitting next to the local cop at a red light. |
| The post cat O2 sensor also seems to have a slight effect on base timing and fuel mixture... Removing the post cat O2 sensor DOES require a SIMM for performance, and on the newer trucks, to keep the MIL light turned off as well. |
| To turn off a MIL light, if you don’t have EASE software or a scanner, simply disconnect the C1 connector from the PCM. That’s the one closest to the firewall. [Looking at the PCM with the connectors at the top, facing you, it’s the one on the right] Do this for about 5 minutes1.. Far better than the battery cable, now you don’t have to reset your clock and radio stations. |
